Shouldering On

Saturday was salami day. My co-curer and I seasoned, ground, and stuffed 6 lbs of pork shoulder and back fat into beef “middles,” following fairly closely a Polcyn and Ruhlman recipe for an orange and walnut wonder that we made last year in both fresh and dry-cured forms. Two to three weeks from now, though probably not quite in time for Christmas, these pale and unbecoming cylinders will be fermented marvels, ready to slice thin and eat with a bit of onion or tomato jam on crusty bread.

I had to cut the pork off the bone prior to salamizing it, and, not being one to let bones go to waste, and also being now bereft of my beloved turkey broth, I broiled them brown, sucked out the marrow, then put them in water to simmer for the rest of the morning while we made the salami. When I came home it was but the work of a moment to throw in some noodles and broccoli for a perfect lunchtime soup, topped with crispy pea shoots from Blue Dog and sliced Cinzori red onion.

No morsel was left behind, only a bare bowl and well cleaned bones.


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