Offal – the punniest food

I won’t make the puns myself, but I did make three delicious dishes involving various internal bits of bird and beast last night: hearts of goat and turkey confitted in goose and bacon fat along with the gizzard of the turkey, all sliced thin, briefly sauteed, then served over greens and sauteed fennel with a mustard-wine reduction; goat and turkey liver pate, smeared on crusty bread with a bacon-onion-balsamic jammy sauce; and goat kidneys cooked in sherry served over rice — with lots of parsley for everything, the key balance, I and my offal friends found, to the organy richness. I’ve had heart, gizzard, and poultry-liver pate before, but goat liver was new — and the thing was huge! that goat knew how to live! — and I’d never eaten kidneys of any kind. These won’t, I hope, be my last. Unlike the monstrous liver, the goat kidneys were the cutest little heart-shaped things you ever saw, and, after a soak in milk, surprising tasty. No pee flavor at all!

Above: the hearts and gizzards in their overnight bath of shallot, thyme, salt, and pepper.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *